Gulab jamun is the dessert by which all other desi sweets are judged. At Eid, at weddings, at family dinners — gulab jamun is always there, and when it's made well, it is extraordinary: impossibly soft, deeply sweet with the caramel-milk flavour of fried khoya, and perfumed with cardamom and rose. When it's made badly, it is dense, doughy, or over-sweet.
The key is the khoya-to-flour ratio and the frying temperature. Too much flour creates dense, bread-like jamuns. Too little and they fall apart in the oil. The oil must be medium-low — too hot and they brown on the outside while remaining doughy inside. This is a recipe that rewards patience and attention.