Dahi baray holds a special place on the Ramadan iftar table across Pakistan and India. The contrast of temperatures and textures — hot just-fried baray dunked into ice-cold yoghurt, crispy outside becoming soft after soaking — is one of the great textural experiences in South Asian food. They are also one of the trickier things to make well: the batter must be the right consistency, the oil must be at the right temperature, and the soaking time in yoghurt cannot be rushed.
The key to light, fluffy baray is beating air into the batter after grinding — a wooden spoon worked vigorously for 5 minutes creates a batter that produces baray that puff up and stay soft rather than dense and chewy.