Paya is often mentioned in the same breath as nihari as the great bone-broth dish of Pakistan. Where nihari is the breakfast dish of Karachi, paya is the dish of Lahore and the Punjab — traditionally cooked overnight in large pots and served in the early morning with hot naan, chopped ginger, and green chillies. The appeal is primal: bones slow-simmered for hours release collagen, marrow, and a cartilaginous richness that creates a broth so deeply flavoured that it barely needs seasoning.
Good paya requires two things: clean trotters and time. The butcher should have the trotters cleaned and split for you. The time is non-negotiable.